Start: Phortse, 12500 feet (3800 m)
End: Dingboche, 14300 feet (4350 m)
Today was a big day. He had our longest hike to Dingboche- about 7 hours. We started with a pretty steady climb, then a flat, a downhill and another climb up to Pangboche for lunch. This took almost 3 hours.
I had diarrhea today and my stomach was not right all day which made walking less than great. I had to stop 3 times on the trail today in addition to my morning visit. The afternoon walk dragged on a bit.
I walked alone much of the afternoon as I was trying to keep my own pace today. I'm not keeping up with the fastest group, but I want a little more pace than the slowest group. Being alone, however, is remarkable. Being alone with your thoughts with such a landscape and so far from home is a great escape.
One of the assistant guides, Babu Ram walked with me for awhile and motivated me. We got to talk about our families and lifestyles and except for the time I spent with Amrit at Phakding it's the first such talk I've had. I enjoyed it a lot. The people involved in trekking understand exactly the disparity in lifestyles between themselves and their clients, unlike many of the city dwellers in Kathmandu. I wonder how they deal with it. I know I feel embarrassed by it.
The last hour of walking was a steady, never-broken climb to Dingboche. We camped, again, at the highest point over town. I sense a trend! What thrilling views there were today! We had close-ups of Ama Dablam which blew my mind. The location of the high camp on an outcrop of snow and rock was clearly visible and clearly insane. The ever closer Lhotse wall and peak becomes more stunning and looms larger with every step. Everest herself put in several appearances today, with her trademark pyramidal peak and plume of snow. It was windy today- the first real cold and wind we've experienced.
I snacked on some Western food tonight- a Mars bar, an energy bar and some nuts, and then I ate less of the supper. My gut is still not better, so I took Cipro tonight as a precaution. Dad did very well today and is getting some confidence! He is farther now than he expected to make it and is excited to see the ever higher elevations. I never had a doubt he'd get here and farther. This spot is 4340m or 14300 feet, so is higher than either of us has ever been before- Pike's Peak, our previous best, is 14110. We are still huffing and puffing but have no AMS symptoms except for a dull headache that I think is a bit of dehydration. Water purification is a pain in the ass but we're doing it. No need to spoil the trip with sickness now.
Tomorrow, we take our second acclimatization hike, which we learning last time, is not to be confused with "rest". The plan is a 4 hour return hike to Chukkung at 4750m up the valley towards Island Peak. This is a critical acclimatization since the next night we'll be sleeping at 4600m. I will also be doing laundry tomorrow since I stink like a beast.
It is very cold tonight. My 4 layers are not quite doing the trick. I think the down jacket will come out tonight. It's still early, but I'd just like to lie down, so we'll see how long until sleep comes. I've had no trouble sleeping. I sure hope my stomach is better tomorrow. I am really missing my girls at home today, but I try not to let it bother me- I am loving and relishing this trip of a lifetime. The sense of accomplishment and overcoming obstacles is fulfilling. This is all mental, not physical. I am getting to know my Dad better, but I'm really getting to know myself better. Some of the climbs have been astounding, and no one will ever believe me when I explain what it feels like to ascend 300m at 45 degrees carrying a pack and having way less oxygen than normal. After this, I will have some perspective to relate everyday problems as the small annoyances they really are. Will and desire is everything.